Quick answer
Paint the M7 Priest from the inside out: assemble and check the hull, prime and base-coat in olive drab, pick out tracks and details, apply decals, then weather and base with a low, textured profile that protects the running gear.
Why the Priest rewards a different painting order
The M7 Priest has an open fighting compartment, so anything you paint after the hull is closed in becomes hard to reach. Treat the interior and the gun mount as early steps, not touch-ups. The pulpit-style machine gun ring also creates a visible focal point, so keep it clean and uncluttered rather than burying it in weathering.
At 12mm, contrast matters more than fine blending. Choose a base olive drab that reads clearly under table lighting, then use a darker wash and a restrained drybrush to separate the hull panels, tracks and stowage. Avoid heavy mud on the suspension if you want the model to stay recognizable as a self-propelled gun rather than a terrain piece.
Decals and markings: plan before you seal the model
American artillery vehicles in 12mm often carry small markings that disappear if applied over a textured or dusty surface. Apply decals after the base coat and before final weathering, and use a setting solution so they sit flat over raised details. If you are modelling a specific vehicle, check references first; if not, keep markings minimal and consistent across the unit.
The M7 Priest set includes a decal sheet, which is useful for building a matched battery. Decide on a simple scheme for the whole unit before you start, because mixing markings across six vehicles looks messy at this scale.
Step-by-step: painting and basing your M7 Priest
- Assemble and check the hull: Dry-fit the hull, gun mount and tracks before gluing. Fill any gaps along the upper hull with a little putty and sand smooth. Common mistake: gluing the fighting compartment closed before checking that the gun barrel sits level. Test-fit the gun mount before the hull is sealed.
- Prime and base-coat: Prime in a thin grey or black, then airbrush or brush a mid olive drab over the whole vehicle. Keep the coat light so detail stays crisp. Checkpoint: the recesses should still show primer, not a solid block of green. Stop before the olive drab fills the panel lines.
- Paint the interior and gun: Brush the fighting compartment interior, gun breech and machine gun ring before final assembly. Use a slightly lighter olive for the interior so it reads through the opening. Common mistake: painting the interior after the hull is closed, which leaves bare patches. Finish the interior before the hull goes together.
- Pick out tracks and details: Paint tracks a dark brown-black, then drybrush a metallic grey on the tread contact points. Add stowage, tools and the machine gun in contrasting tones. Checkpoint: from arm's length, the tracks should separate visually from the hull. Keep track colour distinct from the hull.
- Apply decals: Apply markings over a gloss or satin surface using a setting solution. Keep the number and stars small and aligned. Common mistake: applying decals after dust and mud, which stops them adhering flat. Decal before weathering, not after.
- Weather lightly: Apply a thin dark wash to recesses, then a restrained drybrush of a lighter olive on upper edges. Add dust to the lower hull and tracks with a pigment or dry pigment brush. Checkpoint: stop before the pulpit machine gun ring loses definition. Weather the running gear more than the upper hull.
- Base for durability: Glue the model to a thin base, then add texture paste, sand and small stones. Paint the base a muted earth tone and drybrush lighter. Keep the base low so the vehicle sits naturally. Common mistake: building a thick base that hides the tracks and makes the model unstable. Keep the base thin enough to show the tracks.