Quick answer

To paint the Deep Cuts Plague Doctor & Cultist, start from the primed figures and work in layers: dark basecoats, drybrushed highlights, then targeted washes for grime. Keep the plague doctor's mask and the cultist's robes visually distinct so the duo reads clearly on the table. The steps below give you a repeatable order that avoids muddy colors and lost detail.

Why this duo suits a grim scheme

The Plague Doctor & Cultist set from WizKids Deep Cuts arrives primed and ready to paint, with deep cuts that make it easier to reach recessed areas. That prep means you can focus on color choices rather than cleanup. A grim palette—desaturated browns, blacks, and bone—fits both figures and keeps them from looking like cartoon villains. Because the miniatures are pre-primed, avoid thick basecoats that would fill the deep cuts and erase the detail you paid for.

Paints and tools that make the process smoother

You do not need a full studio to get a good result. A black or dark brown primer is already applied, so you can go straight to basecoats. Use a size 0 or 1 brush for detail work and an old brush for drybrushing. A wet palette helps keep your mixes consistent across both figures. For dark robes, a matte black, a dark grey, and a bone or off-white for highlights cover most of the work. Metallic accents on buckles or tools are optional but help break up large dark areas.

Step-by-step painting order

  1. Basecoat the robes and coat: Thin your dark brown or black paint with a little water and apply two thin coats over the robes and the plague doctor's coat. Let each coat dry before the next. Checkpoint: the primer should still show through slightly after the first coat; that is normal. If paint pools in the deep cuts, you are loading the brush too heavily.
  2. Paint the mask and skin areas: Use a bone or off-white for the plague doctor's mask and any exposed skin. Keep the mask lighter than the robes so it becomes the focal point. For the cultist, use a muted flesh tone and avoid letting it spill onto the hood. Common mistake: using pure white on the mask. Off-white or bone looks more worn and fits the grim theme.
  3. Add a wash for grime and depth: Apply a dark brown or black wash over the robes, mask crevices, and any straps. Let it settle in the recesses, then wick away excess from flat areas with a clean, damp brush. Checkpoint: the wash should darken seams and folds, not tint the entire surface. If it looks glossy, you used too much.
  4. Drybrush highlights on the robes: Mix a lighter grey or brown and drybrush lightly over the raised folds of the robes and coat. Use very little paint on the brush and build up slowly. Common mistake: drybrushing with a wet brush. Wipe most of the paint off first; you want a chalky, dry texture.
  5. Detail the cultist's accessories: Pick out belts, pouches, or symbols with a contrasting color such as dull red or tarnished gold. Use a fine brush and keep lines crisp. Checkpoint: these small accents should draw the eye but not overpower the main figures. If they do, tone them down with a thin wash.
  6. Seal and base the duo: Once the paint is fully dry, apply a matte varnish to protect the finish. If you plan to base them, add texture paint or sand to the base and paint it to match your tabletop. Next step: let the varnish cure completely before storing or transporting the miniatures.

The miniatures you are working with

  • WizKids Deep Cuts: Plague Doctor & Cultist: WizKids Deep Cuts come primed and ready to paint out of the box, with deep cuts for easier painting. You can skip priming and go straight to basecoats, but thin your paint so the deep cuts stay visible.
  • D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures - Female Elf Wizard: D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures are also primed and ready to paint, with deep cuts for easier painting. If you want a matching hero or NPC for your cultist, this line uses the same prep approach and paints consistently.