Quick answer
Start with a dark purple base, layer up with lighter purples and a final white highlight, then drybrush the edges for a faceted gem look. Use a gloss varnish to add a glassy sheen that makes the crystals read as real rock.
What you will need
For this project you will need a few basic supplies: a primer (black or dark grey works best), several shades of purple acrylic paint (dark, medium, and light), a pure white paint, a small detail brush, a drybrush, and a matte or gloss varnish. If you are painting the Amethyst Crystals scenery piece from Monster Fight Club, the hollow plastic is already lightweight and easy to handle, but be careful not to apply too much pressure when drybrushing the taller spikes.
Preparing the model
Wash the crystal pieces in warm soapy water to remove any mould release, then let them dry completely. Apply a thin, even coat of black or dark grey primer. A dark primer will help the purple layers read as deep and saturated rather than chalky. Let the primer cure for at least an hour before painting.
Step-by-step painting guide
- Basecoat with dark purple: Apply a solid coat of dark purple over the entire crystal. Make sure the paint flows into all the crevices and recesses. A single thick coat can obscure detail, so use two thin coats instead. Common mistake: painting only the raised areas. The basecoat must cover everything so the shadows stay dark.
- Layer with medium purple: Mix a medium purple and apply it to the raised facets and the upper two-thirds of each crystal spike. Leave the darkest purple visible in the deep recesses and at the base. Use a side-to-side motion to keep the paint off the deepest shadows. Checkpoint: the transition should be soft, not a hard line. If you see a sharp edge, feather it with a damp brush.
- Highlight with light purple: Apply a light purple to the very tips of the crystals and the highest points of each facet. Keep this layer thin and let the medium purple show through. You want a gradual shift from dark to light. Common mistake: using white too early. The light purple should still read as purple, not grey.
- Drybrush the edges: Load a drybrush with a tiny amount of white paint, then wipe most of it off on a paper towel. Lightly brush the edges and corners of the crystals. This creates the illusion of reflected light on the faceted surfaces. Checkpoint: if the white paint leaves solid streaks, your brush is too wet. Wipe off more paint and try again.
- Apply gloss varnish: Once the paint is fully dry, spray or brush on a gloss varnish. The glossy finish mimics the glassy, reflective surface of real crystals and helps protect the paint job during gameplay. Optional: if you prefer a matte look, use matte varnish on the base and gloss only on the crystal faces for contrast.
Product used in this guide
- Amethyst Crystals: Bring your tabletop to life with giant crystals, perfect for use as objective markers. Magical set dressing or cover in deep caverns, these crystals tower over the average model creating a stunning table setup: LED tea lights are great underneath! The crystal models are hollow plastic, lightweight and perfect for hobby projects. The large crystals are 3-1/4" high, the medium crystals are 2-1/2" high, and the small… The hollow plastic construction makes them easy to handle and paint, and the varied sizes let you create a natural-looking crystal cluster on your game board.
