Quick answer
For overhanging routes, choose aggressive climbing shoes with a pronounced downturn, moderate to high asymmetry, and a snug fit to transfer power to small edges and pockets.
Why downturn and asymmetry matter on steep terrain
On overhangs, your foot is constantly pulling against gravity. A downturned toe hooks into holds and lets your foot act like a hook, while asymmetry directs force to the big toe for precise edging. Without these features, your foot will fatigue faster and you'll slip off small footholds.
Trade-off: comfort vs. performance
Aggressive shoes are less comfortable for long approaches or all-day wear. If you plan to climb multiple steep routes in a session, look for a model that balances downturn with a slightly more forgiving fit. The Katana Lace Women's, for example, offers a downturn that performs on steep routes but is described as a comfortable all-day workhorse.
Decision rules for choosing overhang climbing shoes
- Dowel the downturn: Look for a shoe with a clear downturn (curved shape) when viewed from the side. The more aggressive the overhang, the more downturn you need.
- Check the asymmetry: Asymmetry means the shoe is shaped to curve toward your big toe. This concentrates power for edging. Moderate to high asymmetry is best for overhangs.
- Prioritize a snug, heel-locked fit: Your heel should not lift when you pull on a steep hold. A two-strap closure system, like on the Otaki, helps lock the heel and adjust tension across the foot. If your heel slips, try a different model or size.
- Match rubber to your climbing style: Stickier rubber (Vibram XS Grip or similar) helps on steep smears. Harder rubber (XS Edge) lasts longer but may slip on polished overhangs. Choose based on your local rock.
Shoe recommendations for overhanging routes
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Katana Lace Women's: The Katana Lace Women's has a slightly downturned toe and subtle asymmetry, yet is described as a comfortable all-day climbing workhorse that excels on steep single or multi-pitch routes. This shoe gives you the precision needed for overhangs without punishing your feet during a long session.
Katana Lace Women's
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Otaki: The Otaki combines an aggressive design with a supportive two-strap closure system and excels at technical edging and on vertical overhanging terrain. Its aggressive shape and secure closure make it a strong choice for steep routes where you need to edge on small holds.
Otaki
Who should buy these shoes?
Best for
- Climbers who regularly climb steep routes (30 degrees or more) and need precision on small holds
- Intermediate to advanced climbers looking to level up their performance on overhangs
Not for
- Beginners who are still building footwork on vertical or slab terrain
- Climbers who prioritize all-day comfort over performance on steep routes
