Quick answer
To sew the ANAÏS overalls, start by choosing a mid-weight woven fabric, cut the pattern pieces carefully, then follow the barrel-leg assembly and bib attachment steps below.
Why the ANAÏS pattern is different
The ANAÏS overalls by Maéli feature a barrel-leg cut—wide through the thigh and tapered at the ankle—which gives a relaxed yet modern silhouette. Unlike straight-leg dungarees, the curved side seams require careful pinning to avoid twisting. The pattern also offers two versions: overalls (salopette) or pants, so decide before cutting.
Fabric and sizing considerations
This pattern works best with medium-weight woven fabrics like denim, twill, or linen. Avoid stretch fabrics unless you adjust the seam allowances. The high-waisted design means you may need to shorten the rise if you have a shorter torso—check the finished measurements on the pattern envelope before cutting.
Step-by-step sewing instructions
- Prepare your fabric and pattern pieces: Wash and press your fabric to pre-shrink it. Cut out the pattern pieces according to your size, transferring all notches and grainlines. Use pattern weights or pins to keep the paper from shifting. Double-check that you cut both the overalls and pants pieces if you plan to make the pants version later.
- Sew the front and back leg seams: With right sides together, stitch the front and back leg pieces along the inseam (the curved inner leg). Press the seam open. Repeat for the other leg. Use a longer stitch length (3–4 mm) for basting first to test the fit before final stitching.
- Assemble the crotch seam: Turn one leg right side out and insert it into the other leg (right sides together). Align the crotch notches and pin. Stitch from the front waist to the back waist in one continuous seam. Press the seam open over a tailor's ham. Clip the curved seam allowance at the crotch point to reduce bulk, but be careful not to cut the stitching.
- Attach the bib and straps: For the overalls version, sew the bib front to the waistband, then attach the straps. For the pants version, skip the bib and attach the waistband directly. Use a buttonhole or D-rings for strap adjustment. Try on the overalls before attaching the straps permanently to adjust the length for your torso.
- Hem the legs and finish the edges: Fold up the hem by the recommended allowance (usually 1 inch) and press. Stitch close to the folded edge. Finish all raw edges with a serger or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying. For a professional look, use a blind hem stitch on the legs if your machine has one.
- Final pressing and fit check: Press all seams and the overalls thoroughly. Check the fit at the waist, hips, and crotch. If adjustments are needed, take in side seams or shorten the straps. This is the time to add topstitching along the bib and waistband for a denim-like finish.
Product facts
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La salopette ANAÏS - Maéli: The ANAÏS pattern is inspired by a barrel-leg cut, with a high waist, generous volume through the legs, and a tapered ankle. This means you need to pay extra attention to the curved inseam and hem finishing to maintain the intended silhouette without puckering.
La salopette ANAÏS - Maéli
